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Member Poll
How many miles on your W124?

0mi - 50,000mi
0mi - 50,000mi
5% [86 Votes]

50,000mi - 100,000mi
50,000mi - 100,000mi
10% [175 Votes]

100,000mi - 150,000mi
100,000mi - 150,000mi
21% [372 Votes]

150,000mi - 200,000mi
150,000mi - 200,000mi
25% [434 Votes]

200,000mi - 250,000mi
200,000mi - 250,000mi
18% [313 Votes]

250,000mi - 300,000mi
250,000mi - 300,000mi
10% [172 Votes]

300,000mi - 350,000mi
300,000mi - 350,000mi
5% [80 Votes]

350,000mi +
350,000mi +
6% [112 Votes]

Votes: 1744
You must login to vote.
Started: 03/14/2011

Polls Archive

View Thread
» W124-Zone.com » Technical Issues
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warm starting problem
bill e
1988 300ce, 172k. when car is cold starts ok. after car warms up car will not crank on 1st try, but will start on 2nd try with a little rough idle, but then levels out. if i give gas to the car when it is warm it will start every time with a little rough idle then is ok. have installed new fuel filter and new fuel pump. any suggestions as what i might try next. thanks, bill e
 
CrazyKarl
I have had kind of the same issue with a '94 e320 wagon. I think some injector cleaner may help at least it did for me.
 
n/a
bill e
thanks for the reply, but i have already tried this and still have problem. bill e
 
ps2cho
Probably fuel accumulator no longer holding fuel pressure after shutoff. When the car is warm, this is critical for starting.
1988 Pearl Grey Metallic Mercedes 300TE - 114,000mi
1987 Black Mercedes 260E - 92,500mi
2002 Silver CLK320 (Girlfriends) - 104k
w124-zone.com/downloads/photos/260E/AMG_Gen_I/side1-sig.jpg.www.w124-zone.com/downloads/site/wagon-sig.jpg
 
http:///www.w124-zone.com
RMiller
I get the same symptoms when cold as well. Needs 2nd key turn over, rough idle for a bit and then smooths out. Be just living with it but would really like to solve.

Rob
90 300e with 130k
 
david_sears
I have the identical problem with my 1988 300E. I have tried all of the obvious things-replaced fuel accumulator and fuel regulator.
I have swapped the Electro-Hydraulic Actuator (EHA), which controls the amount of fuel entering the fuel distributor. I have tried adjusting the EHA. I have disconnected the cold-start valve.
The fuel system pressure holds at about 3.5 BAR for 25-30 min after shut-off. It doesn't seem to be a fuel pressure issue or air leak issue. So far I am stumped. Any progress on your end?
D.Sears
 
david_sears
Update - I solved the problem. Repairs I made in order are: smoke test indicated leak in rubber boot underneath throttle valve. Replaced boot, no change in starting problem. Replaced crank position sensor, no change. Replaced fuel pressure regulator, no change. Suspected timing chain was possibly stretched, rebuilt head, replaced timing chain, no change. Replaced fuel distributor with rebuilt unit, voila! Problem solved.
Hope this helps someone, this was a real pain.
Regards,
DS
 
davidjohn
Smoke tests are performed to check the leaks in rubber boots and gaskets. Vacuum leak can be easily identified if smoke test is performed. Rubber boots are used for various purposes such as hunting, farming, ranching,etc. Thus smoke test can be effective to check the leakage and avoid the damages.
 
http://www.rubber-sales.com
gazanfar
Your car has a problem that will disturb you for a long time. One person first complained about this on http://superiorpapers.org and it still is a problem. My suggestion would be to buy a new car.
 
gazanfar
This is very useful, although it will be important to help simply click that web page link: Obsession Phrases
 
gazanfar
great Dofollow Trust Flow Backlinks
 
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